Day 7, 17th March – Western Antarctic Peninsula

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Tuesday 17 March 2015

It’s my birthday today! We are in Wilhelmina Bay in the Western Antarctic Peninsula, the weather is clear and we are all up at the crack of dawn. Marine mammal surveys begin at 0700 am, and the birthday wishes are already arriving. Off the bow, the first sighting occurs in the distance – a rolling humpback! Antarctica is already masking any other excitement. What would today have in store? We head down to breakfast and I demolished my daily croissant and then it’s time to run back up to the bridge for another observation shift… No rest for the wicked… More Humpbacks are sighted as we travel through the Gerlache Strait. What a start to the day!

We soon get ready for the very first Antarctic landing at Cuverville Island. Finally we’ll set foot on solid ground (how I have missed that reassuring rock). Lifejackets on, camera at the ready, binoculars poised and CTD in hand, we load into the zodiacs all disinfected and raring to go. Once at sea in our zodiac (sturdy inflatable boat) we take our first scientific measurements. Secchi disc lowered (to measure productivity), CTD deployed (to obtain salinity and temperature profiles) and hydrophones at the ready (to listen for whales and singing seals), our fingers remain firmly crossed for some more whales! After a peaceful 30 minutes in the cold, and with all instruments back in the boat, we spot something in the brash ice. Seal? Penguin? NO YET ANOTHER WHALE! There it was, less than 50 meters away – amazing. In slow pursuit, we managed to get an even closer look before it disappeared to depth with one last salute of its magnificent tail fluke. Just as we are set to leave, as if by magic, another sighting occurs on the horizon – a playful humpback breaching over and over!

Many pictures later, it’s time to head to land, but before we set course I lean over the zodiac and grab an ice block….. first drink of the day in the form of glacial ice, can’t be bad for a Tuesday! That’s it, I am complete. As we head in shore, Cuverville Island is in sight, flooded with Gentoo penguins and the odd Antarctic fur seal – what more could I want for a birthday present? Did they know I was coming?

Walking along the beach, we listen to the call of penguins with the sweet smell of digested krill in the air. Antarctica has cast its spell on us! Many memories later, it’s time to head back to the mothership (Ye Olde Planky). Once aboard we fill up our bellies and warm up our toes, then rush up to the bridge for yet another humpback sighting. Eighteen individual whales are spotted within close range, could this really be happening? How many sightings and its only lunch time?… Sonja yells and we all run outside on to the deck…. then there they are – two humpbacks using Olde Planky as a back scratcher. I lean over the stern to get a birds-eye view and get a face full of humpback breath; it is a personal birthday gift. Looking around, it becomes evident there are just too whales many to keep them all in sight; Antarctica is a wild life playground…… we are only a mere speck in the Southern Ocean.

By this point, my teeth are so cold from the constant smiling and I burst into tears – overwhelmed to say the least. I am adorned with hugs from my friends, new and old.

It is now time for the second landing of the day, to Danco Island. The sea is still pretty calm and we head to dry land. Upon arrival, we notice a Leopard Seal in the water, cruising around the shoreline, readying itself for its next meal. With Olde Planky as a backdrop, icebergs in the foreground and Gentoos at our feet, the cold teeth make another appearance. A small hike up the hillside reveals the bay in all its glory. A sudden thundering noise in the background, I turn and Antarctica gives me my second present – a magnificent iceberg calving event. Leading by example, the penguins scarper up the beach with us close behind. I wish I had a surfboard (surfs up!). Could this day actually get any better?….. Well apparently it can…

After all of this it’s time to head back to the Olde Planky. Once on-board we smell what can only be described as ‘icing on the cake’… A BBQ on the back deck! Rushing to get ready and putting on our dancing shoes (warm walking boots) on, we gorge on the widest range of foods and plenty of mulled wine. The music kicks in and Lars takes to the dancefloor whilst Sonja speaks my name. What is about the happen? All the lights go out, and a sparkler turns the corner, video cameras are all pointed at me, it’s a cake! Happy birthday sung in languages from all around the world whilst all united in a continent where nobody lives permanently. Irony to say the least! A small speech was desired, and the day finally came to a close…… Antarctica in all its glory, has shown and delivered thoughts possible only beyond my wildest dreams, this rife, vast, yet isolate continent is where life represents a powerful and pristine environment, enlightening our understanding of how life should be everywhere on earth.

Georgina Roberts (MSc EMMS)