Day 8, 18th March – Lemaire Channel, Petermann Island, Vernadsky Station

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Wednesday 18 March 2015

Once again, survey effort starts at first light (6.30 am). This is our second day in the Antarctic, but ask any of us how long we’ve been here and we’d tell you we’ve been scanning the ocean, getting in and out of zodiacs and battling icy winds for about a week. This morning the Plancius is cruising through the scenic Lemaire Channel which is narrow and surrounded by 800m high glaciated peaks. Unfortunately the mountain tops are veiled from our views by clouds and swirling snow. The deck is already covered in snow and is more slippery than usual. We’ve got our first landing planned at about 9.30 am, but the local wildlife doesn’t wait until then. A group of 8 sleeping Humpback whales close to the boat offer us some relief from the cold before we are urged to go and get all wrapped up for the Petermann Island landing. Before the actual landing, our group spends about an hour in the ‘research’ zodiac doing multiple CTD, hydrophone and Secchi disc readings. Antarctic terns seem to be very curious about our activities and keep circling our zodiac. Once on land, we immediately notice that every single piece of this beautiful continent seems to be completely different. The landing happens right next to a Gentoo penguin pool where the youngsters are playing in the shallow water practicing their swimming skills. The rest of the island is covered in snow and glaciers. A short hike up the hill takes us to our first Adélie penguins of the trip. They are a slightly scruffy looking bunch as they are moulting and thus sport punky feathers including one with a mohawk. The fresh snow proves excellent for sliding on the way back down.

We start surveying again (i.e. watching out for marine mammals and birds) as soon as we all get back on ‘good old Plancy’ and the anchor is up. The expedition leader Kelvin announces that we’ve been invited to visit the close by Ukrainian research station Vernadsky. This very interesting opportunity is combined with a truly amazing zodiac cruise around the nearby islands and ice floes. We’re probably the very last people to visit the base before the long and dark winter season sets in and the postcards we leave with these brave men will most likely overwinter in the Antarctic. Most of us try the homemade, almondy vodka for good luck in the local bar with proper beer tabs (which cannot deny their British origins, this base was once a British base called Faraday). Another curiosity of the bar is the decoration – apparently tradition had it that ladies had to leave pieces of lingerie to get their drinks for free….. Whether our female student paid for theirs, remains a secret….

On the short cruise around the surrounding islands and ice floes, we encounter some more Gentoo penguins and Antarctic fur seals swimming and playing. The penguins are intrigued by the bubbles coming from the zodiac engine and start following us around, porpoising in our wake. On a gorgeous icy blue iceberg, an extremely lazy Crabeater seal gives us a short glance before dozing off again.

Back on the Plancius, the students on survey duty rush back to the bridge to be all set and ready for when our vessel starts moving again. We spot some more Humpacks and Antarctic minke whales before hearing the plans for a third outing today. Because the sun actually managed to break through the clouds at this point, we get the amazing opportunity to cruise through the Lemaire Channel in our zodiacs. The entrance is covered in brash ice, reflecting the reddish sun in anticipation of sunset. Now we get the views of the snow and glacier covered mountains that flank the passage which we were denied this morning. We can see the Plancius following us down the narrow channel, looking just like a toy boat compared with the absolutely massive amounts of rock and ice that dominate this landscape.

After a well-deserved dinner, yet another exciting, eventful, cold and long day takes its toll. We are absolutely knackered. The prospects of a polar plunge the next day will probably haunt many expeditioners’ dreams tonight…..

Helena Voet (MSc MMS)