Day 10, 20th March – Cierva Cove, Mikkelsen Harbour and Bransfield Strait
Today was our fourth and final day along the Western Antarctic Peninsula. We received a 6:30 wake-up call from the expedition leader to take part in a sun rise zodiac cruise in Cierva Cove. This was a beautiful bay filled with brash ice and larger ice bergs calved off the surrounding glaciers and trapped in shallower waters. We completed our ‘science’ which includes the CTD for temperature and salinity estimates at depth, Secchi disk readings for visibility and a hydrophone in hope to record the presence of marine mammals in the bay. While doing this, we were able to watch the sun rise over the mountainous landscape of the Antarctic Peninsula. With faded blue skies and small rosey pink clouds this, for me, was the most scenic spot of our trip. We started our tour around the bay later than the other zodiacs, however this was no worry with our speedy zodiac driver Alex. In the middle of this picturesque cove, there was a rocky shore, where a colony of Chinstrap penguins could be found. This crossed of a 4th species of penguins on our list. Some lucky folks were able to spot a giant leopard seal lurking in the shallows.
Back on board, we had to rush down our breakfast in order to get back on the bridge to start our survey in time for the ship moving. Sailing through Orleans Strait (at the northern end of the Gerlache Strait) we excitingly sighted a possible blue whale blow. This blow was very very large, however it was only sighted a couple of times over a vast distance. We also saw plenty of the by now very familiar bushy humpback whale blows.
Mikkelsen Harbour at the southern end of Trinity Island was last landing in Antarctica, and luckily a variety of seals could be found here. Weddell and fur seals hauled out on land and leopard seals hunted for young penguins in the shallows. There were 6 Weddell seals on one part of the shore. They were very cute waving and rubbing their stomachs with their short front flippers and their movement on land resembled that of a large slug. Some of the Weddells were actually ‘singing’ while hauled-out. Those with tuned ears could hear trills and chirps not too dissimilar to bird sounds or reminiscent of extra-terrestrial noises used in sci-fi movies. One lonely chinstrap penguin was also found amongst the gentoo colony on the island. We sat amongst them watching their behaviour: One particular pair of gentoos worked together to secure a pile of pebbles; one collected while one was standing guard. Those penguins which did not have a look out, often returned to an empty pile as sneaky individuals waddling away with the pebbles, disappearing into the colony. This was the perfect place to say goodbye to the penguins, seals and sadly, the Antarctic Peninsula.
As the wind picked up, the zodiacs were loaded quickly and everyone were brought back to the Plancius, with some arriving dripping wet from the sea spray. Even though we had finished our last landing and zodiac experience, this did not mean we were any less spoilt with unique Antarctic wildlife. We continued to enjoy our whale safari sailing though the Bransfield Strait with breaching humpbacks, minke whales surfacing close to the ship and porpoising fur seals. Smith Island was now visible on the starboard side of the ship, which had previously been hidden by foggy weather conditions on the way to the continent. In the late afternoon we entered the open water of the Drake Passage and the movement of the ship grew stronger. After re-growing our sea legs most of the team made it onto the top deck for rum and hot chocolate, which went very well with the temperature of zero degree Celcius, however not so well with the sea sickness medication.
Antarctica has been the experience of a life time and now when someone asks me “Where is your favourite place in the world?” the answer will be simple.
Tammi Warrender (MSc EMMS)
