Humpback whales bubble feeding, an emperor penguin, and a sea ice landing!

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Tuesday 16 January 2024

Day 5 – 11 January, written by Heidi (with edits by Sonja)

Words cannot describe the excitement we all experienced throughout today. Antarctica really gave us the show of a life time!

Our day started at 6:15am with surveys for marine mammals and seabirds. We cruised through a sea strewn with icebergs glistening in the morning sun as we searched for blows from whales, seals hauled out on ice, and seabirds soaring across the ocean’s surface. Our marine mammal surveys started strong when the observers spotted the first humpback whales. At 1030h we crossed the Polar Circle, officially entering the region of the midnight sun which was of course worthy of celebration. So during our break from surveying some of us joined fellow passengers for the baptising celebrations hosted by ‘King Neptune’ on the top deck. Those brave enough to participate in the ceremony had ice-cold water poured down their backs but were rewarded with a shot of vodka to warm up and toast in celebration.

As we approached the spectacular coastline of Antarctica the wind dropped and the sea surface became glass-like. I joined the on-duty observers on deck as blue skies started to break through the snow clouds and enjoyed the spectacular scenery before the start of my shift. Suddenly identifying marine wildlife got a little hectic…… humpback whales popped up in different places with three whales even bubble-net feeding near our ship. It sure did bring tears to my eyes (and it wasn’t the icy Antarctic winds this time), as it did for many others who watched for real what we had only seen in documentaries until now.

But this was only the beginning of what turned out to be the most incredible day … as the ship moved past icebergs we saw many more humpback whales and crabeaters seals including a few seal pairs with pups of the year. We also spotted our first Antarctic penguins (Adélie), a few Weddell seals and a minke whale! Words cannot describe the experience and serene beauty that surrounded us. Even during lunch in the restaurant we continued to enjoy the stunning views out of the panorama windows.

When the vessel stopped it was time to get kitted up for zodiac cruising which was an incredible experience. Zodiacs are sturdy inflatable boats with outboard engines used to shuttle up to 10 passengers around and to shore. As we were driven past the turquoise reflections of the icebergs in the water my zodiac group spotted a humpback whale nearby. We also got closer views of crabeater seals hauled out on the ice. Even a lone Adélie penguin popped up photogenically next to a group of crabeater seals on a small iceberg!

After our zodiac cruise through the ice we had a bit of downtime as the remaining passengers took turns to go on their boat excursions. Some of us headed up to the top deck to check out the outdoor jacuzzi and pool. We soaked in the hot water (heated by the wastewater from ship engines’ cooling system) while taking in the stunning views. We even spotted a humpback whale from the pool and two crabeater seals on an ice floe drifting past the stationary ship! Others of our group were working away on their computers in the lounge but enjoyed the best study views and also spotted whale blows and flukes. Our group reunited for an early dinner in a buzz of excitement after this incredible first day off the Antarctic continent. We enjoyed more views of humpback whales during our meal and even spotted our first leopard seal!

But the day wasn’t over yet. We had been told by the expedition leader that the ship would sail through the narrow passage of the Gullet during the evening. Our group was buzzing with excitement, particularly hoping to spot orcas which are said to roam around these areas. So there was no shortage of volunteers to resume marine mammal surveys after dinner even as the weather took a turn. The blue skies and calm waters gave way to swirling snow and icy winds. Those on deck endured the icy winds and heavy snowfall, and even spotted seven crabeater seals hauled out on what looked like very extensive sea ice all in front of the ship. Much to our astonishment the ship slowed but didn’t stop and drove right into the sea ice (of course well away from the seals so as not to disturb them). Eventually the Amundsen came to a stop with the hull firmly wedged into the sea ice. We all gasped and stared. Then the ramp was lowered, and several expedition staff set foot on the sea ice to check its thickness. Once the all-clear was given we were allowed to step out onto the sea ice. As we were gearing up for our unexpected off ship adventure some spotted an emperor penguin that had come onto the sea ice in some distance to the ship. An emperor penguin!!!!  I am sure we all felt we were experiencing a David Attenborough documentary first-hand as we stared out at the expanse of sea ice, dotted with crabeater seals, with snow swirling in the icy winds while a lone Emperor penguin stood in the centre of it all… incredible.

As we descended the ramp down to the sea ice it felt like we were leaving a spaceship to explore a different world of pure white where alien creatures roamed. A few crabeater seals came tobogganing past the humans on the ice, probably as puzzled by the whole spectacle as the two-legged space invaders. After plenty of photos we scrambled back up the ramp into the warmth of our ship.

After such a magical series of events we gathered for a debrief and discussion of what was to come the next day (hard to comprehend that this had just been day one in Antarctica proper). But the meeting got interrupted when someone spotted some dorsal fins and blows near the sea ice edge. We of course thought (or wished for) orcas and ran outside without layering up. The fins turned out to be minke whales – not what we had hoped for but still a very exciting encounter. The ship then reversed out of the ice and started its journey further south around Adelaide island. With such an adrenaline-fuelled day the best way to end it was to see the midnight sun… which is exactly what a few of us did.

Now we truly cannot wait for what else Antarctica has left in store for us!