The Boat That Rocked
6th January, Drake Passage
We woke with a shock to the captain’s announcement over the ship’s speakers, warning us of gale-force winds and Beaufort 8 conditions, and advising caution as we moved around the ship. The evening before, we had been informed that the swell would worsen, so we had taken precautions to secure our rooms. Despite our efforts, there were still some items clattering and creaking through the night as the ship swayed in the waves of Drake’s Passage. A few of us were challenged to a midnight puzzle of trying to set a code to secure the safe door, which kept banging against the cupboard every time the boat rocked!
Those who had hoped to experience the infamous ‘Drake Shake’ got their wish today! At breakfast, our numbers were significantly depleted. The horizon swinging back and forth from our perspective on board was dizzying, but somehow the crew continued heroically serving drinks on a tray whilst maintaining their balance.
The outdoor decks were closed all morning due to the conditions, so we didn’t miss any surveying opportunities! Those able to move about the ship enjoyed sighting the dozens of cape petrels (who were loving the conditions) swooping alongside the ship all day. We also spotted some fulmars and a few albatross enjoying the windy ride beside the ship. The icebergs were now behind us, and we were back to open sea, headed north towards the Falkland Islands.
By lunchtime, the worst of the swell had subsided, and the wind began to ease. A few more of us were able to gather at lunch. As soon as the outdoor decks reopened, the team was keen to commence bird surveying and log those cape petrels. Our efforts were rewarded as we were treated to several great bird sightings, including wandering, southern royal, light-mantled and black browed albatrosses.
After a few humpback sightings near to the ship, the team started up marine mammal survey effort as well, and we sighted a number of fin whales, as well as a very exciting (but brief) appearance by hourglass dolphins! A small, striking dolphin species residing in Antarctic and sub-Antarctic waters often sighted in Drakes Passage. Some managed to snap a photograph as it peaked above the waves, allowing us to distinguish the iconic black and white colouration markings that confirmed the species identification. So, despite the wind, it was definitely worth braving the open decks for an afternoon of surveying.
We ended our survey efforts just before a late dinner, and the team was all able to gather for a post-dinner debrief feeling much better than when the day had started. The highlights of the day mostly included the welcome company of the cape petrels and being able to get vertical in the afternoon to survey and spot the hourglass dolphin. By the time we were back in our cabins the winds had calmed, and the cape petrels had settled on the water after a long day of flying with the ship, as we settled in for a more restful night and hoping for a less bumpy ride tomorrow!
written by Sophie
The Drake Shake sounds like an exciting experience! These storms are due to the lack of land barriers and the latitudes at which the 'roaring forties' and 'furious fifties' can be found. In this region the polar and Ferrel air cells meet. The cold air from the Antarctic meets the warm air travelling from the equator. Due to the large difference in temperatures there is a big difference in atmospheric pressure at similar Geopotential heights creating a large force creating the harsh winds you encountered. The harsh and unpredictable nature of these latitudes has given them the nickname "Horse latitudes," given to them by early sailors. You described leaving behind the icebergs probably s you were leaving the polar front, an area of large climate differences which can contribute to the harsh weather. Within the Antarctic Circumpolar current the sea temperature is much lower than the beginning of the Atlantic. Though they or on similar latitudes South Georgia islands and Falkland Islands are very different geographically due to South Georgia sitting within the ACC and the Falkland Islands not. Was there a noticeable temperature change as you exited the polar south?